Oh Taste & See: Four Roses Small Batch

A few months back I took a trip to the Four Roses Distillery in Kentucky. While there I picked up a bottle of Four Roses Small Batch in the gift shop - mostly because it came packaged with a really nice rocks glass and muddler. Well I finally got around to opening up the bottle a few days ago, and given how much respect I have for Four Roses Yellow Label, I was a bit disappointed at my first few drams of the Small Batch. However, now that I'm sitting down to really taste and review it I have to say it has grown on me and it's not a bad bourbon at all.

Like all Four Roses expressions, the Small Batch is very smooth, so if you drink bourbon for the 'bite and burn' this one might not appeal to you. But if you like a nice smooth, relaxed whiskey you'll probably like it, although I'm not sure if the Small Batch (about $36) is worth the premium over the Yellow Label (about $18). My initial reaction to it was that it was medicinal and watery, but I'm coming around after a few subsequent drinks, so maybe I just need to give it some time. In any case, my impression from my current glass is below.

Color: Honey brown with orange shades here and there. A perfectly middle-of-the-road bourbon color, neither light or dark.

Nose: Light and thin in aroma, not much at all to the nose. What is there is a hint of orange and some light vanilla and caramel notes.

Flavor: The Four Roses Small Batch is smooth and easy-sipping, especially for a 90 proof, 'higher-rye' recipe. It does have some peppery notes, but I wouldn't call it spicy. There are also some vanilla, leather, and grain flavors. I am impressed that it manages to be so smooth without being overly sweet, since many bourbons use excessive sweetness to smooth out their rough edges.

Finish: This is where the Small Batch sets itself apart from the standard Four Roses Yellow Label. The finish is long and slow with all the flavors bouncing around for a good while, especially the peppery and grainy tastes. There's even a hint of pine flavor that gives it a really clean-feeling finish. Unlike some other 90+ proof bourbons the long-finish is not just alcohol burn, but is really full of nice flavors.

Overall Four Roses Small Batch is a nice bourbon, especially if you're looking for something super smooth, but still interesting to sip. I wouldn't go so far as to say that it's worth double the cost of Four Roses Yellow Label which I consider a top-notch value, but it's worth a try if you get a chance.

Seriously? Jack D. in a Can?

Not to offend anyone who's into this kind of thing, but I was a bit shocked, and saddened when I learned that Jack Daniels is releasing a line of pre-mixed cocktails in aluminum bottles, and in some states aluminum cans. I know the liquor business is driven by marketing, but I hate to see an American icon cheapened and literally watered down - these things clock in at a mighty 5% ABV.

If you can't mix your own Jack and Coke then I personally feel like you shouldn't be drinking at all - you haven't earned the right. For the price-conscious among us,  750mL bottle of Jack costs under $20 and a two liter of coke about $2. My rough calculations say that for about $24 you could make at least fifteen twelve-ounce Jack and Cokes, so unless these things sell for under $2 per bottle they're ripping you off.

I guess the world's best selling whiskey has to do something to keep growing the brand though, and now that Four Loko is off the market I guess college students need a new, disposable, easy to chug option for getting wasted. I can assure you this is one product you won't see reviewed on this blog.

Rant Over :)

New Products and New Rankings

First, in a follow-up to my post from last week there is yet another new whiskey on the market from one of the biggest of the big boys. Jim Beam's premium Knob Creek line has introduced its first single-barrel expression. The new bottling will be called Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve, and will be priced around $40 per bottle. Knob Creek is a nice sippin' bourbon, and one I think has a nice sharp bite to it. At 120 proof, this new single-barrel version should bring even more of that bite, and I look forward to sampling a bit.

While new whiskeys keep coming out, some classics are racking up awards from Malt Advocate Magazine. It was good to see a nice range of highly attainable (Evan Williams) and highly unattainable (Glenfarclas 40 Year Old) whiskeys on the list.

Oh Taste & See: Old Ezra 7 Year Old Bourbon

Ezra Brooks is one of those bourbons that tries to look like Jack Daniels - square black bottle, mention of charcoal filtering, etc. The other is Evan Williams and both are decent, value-priced bourbons produced by Heaven Hill in Bardstown, KY. I think the standard-issue Ezra Brooks 90-proof is a solid bourbon for the price, if a bit rough around the edges. So when I picked up a bottle of its older cousin - Old Ezra 7 Year Old Bourbon - I expected it to hold its own in the $20-$25 price range in which it competes. I can say that I wasn't disappointed, and that it is actually a fairly unique and enjoyable bourbon, although it could still be mistaken for a bottle of Jack if you weren't paying attention. My instinct is to compare it with a similarly priced bourbon like Maker's Mark or Buffalo Trace, but at 101 proof the Old Ezra 7 Year is a totally different animal than those smooth whiskeys, and might better be compared to other higher-octane bourbons.

Color: Old Ezra 7 Year Old has a very rich, reddish brown color that makes it easy to believe it is at least seven years of age. A very warm looking whiskey, no hints of lightness or wateriness.

Nose: For 101 proof the nose isn't super boozy. The first thing I picked up was a nutty scent like hazelnuts and then some vanilla and banana notes.

Flavor: 7 Year Old Ezra drinks nice and smooth, especially for 101 proof. It has a nice oaky warmth and all the nutty flavors that I picked up in the nose. There's some nice vanilla flavor and a thick feel to this whiskey. It's not at all fruity or light - again a serious, power-punch of a bourbon.

Finish: The finish is long and peppery. The 101 proof gives a nice warming sensation without any harsh burn.

Overall this is a nice sippin' whiskey for when you need a serious spirit.

Interesting Developments from the Big Boys of Whiskey

There have been a few interesting announcements from some of the big Kentucky-based distillers over the past few weeks. First came news that the Early Times name would be returning to the American bourbon bottles. For the past 30 years Brown Forman has produced Early Times Bourbon for overseas market, but limited the brand to the "Kentucky Whiskey" label in the U.S., the distinction being that the Kentucky Whiskey product spent some time in previously-used barrels, a no-no for bourbons. The new U.S. market Early Times Bourbon will be called Early Times 354 in reference to the Early Times distillery's original distilling license number. It is being launched first in select markets, and is competing in the $15-$20 price range. I'm not a huge fan of Early Times Kentucky Whiskey, but I'm hopeful that the bourbon will be an improvement and I look forward to sampling it.

The next piece of interesting news also comes from Brown Forman. The company is launching a new Canadian whisky to be called Collingwood. It's coming to market in four states (KY, FL, LA, and TX) in February with a target price of $26.99. After maturing in oak this whisky will be finished in maple wood, and Brown Forman claims it will be the only maple-finished Canadian whisky on the market. I think the increase in more distinctive Canadian whisky bottlings is a great development, and I look forward to comparing Collingwood with Forty Creek and Pendleton, two surprisingly good Canadian products that have come out in the past few years.


Finally, it's not a new product, but Old Pogue Bourbon is looking for a new home. To be more accurate the Pogue family is looking to move production back to its original home in Maysville, KY. Old Pogue, a Heaven Hill brand, is currently distilled in Bardstown, KY, but if everything goes according to plan Old Pogue could be made in Maysville starting in as little as one year. The town in Northeastern Kentucky is where the Pogue family originally began distilling in 1876.

Whiskey Book Review: More Mountain Spirits

Last month I reviewed the excellent book Mountain Spirits by Joseph Earl Dabney. It was such an entertaining book that I jumped right into reading its sequel, appropriately titled More Mountain Spirits. The lengthy and descriptive subtitle of More Mountain Spirits is "The Continuing Chronicle of Moonshine Life and Corn Whiskey, Wines, Ciders & Beers in America's Appalachians." That's a mouthful of a subtitle, but it does get you thinking that maybe there's more to drink in them thar hills than just 'clear corn likker.'

In his second volume of moonshine history, Dabney does tell tales of apple cider, elderberry wine, tomato beer, and pumpkin gin. His descriptions of these concoctions make for interesting tidbits, and prove the point that folks will make booze out of just about anything they can get their hands on. However, as you read through the book you can tell that the author's true interest is still with corn-based (and later sugar-based) moonshine. He spends most of the book going into detail about corn whiskey, its production process, the men and women who make it and sell it, and the 'revenooers' who hunt the moonshiners in a comical game of cat-and-mouse.

Many of the anecdotes in More Mountain Spirits are simply elaborations or retellings from Mountain Spirits, but there's enough fresh information to make it worth a quick read. Especially informative is the in-depth section on different types of stills and various production processes used by moonshiners. There's even a step-by-step plan for building your own mini-still from scratch. The pictures alone make this book a priceless addition to your 'whiskey library.'

Oh Taste & See: Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey

Rye whiskey is certainly having a moment right now with growing popularity among cocktail enthusiasts, and new brands hitting the market constantly. Today I'm tasting an old classic of the rye whiskey category that has been around, at least in name, for close to 200 years. Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey is a four year old, 80 proof, straight rye whiskey that, in my opinion, sets the standard for other rye whiskeys to shoot for. Originally produced in Pennsylvania, the Old Overholt brand is now made in Kentucky by Jim Beam, but is still happily distinct from the many other bourbons and ryes made alongside it.

At around $18 per bottle it's also a great bargain compared to many of the newer, over-hyped rye whiskeys on the market. In fact, I recently tasted Old Overholt back-to-back with Jim Beam's premium rye whiskey, (ri)1, which sells for $50 per bottle and I definitely preferred the more assertive bite and distinctive character of Old Overholt.

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Cooking With Whiskey: Cinnamon Bourbon Chili

This time of year nothing is better than having a nice hot pot of chili on the stove. Not only does it provide a quick and filling meal, but the aroma fills up the whole house. In fact, I think I like the smell of good chili cooking almost as much as I like eating it.

Over the past few winters I've almost perfected my recipe for a super easy, and super delicious pot of chili. I make mine in a Crock Pot slow cooker which will keep it warm for hours and makes for easy storage, but I'm sure you could just as easily make this recipe in a stove-top pot.

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More Four Roses Info

This article from today's Philadelphia Inquirer goes a little deeper into the history and mystique of Four Roses Bourbon that I mentioned in my last blog entry.

Four Roses Distillery Tour

This year for Christmas I made the long drive home from Philadelphia to beautiful Western Kentucky. On the ride back I broke up the monotonous drive with a stop at the Four Roses distillery in Lawrenceburg, KY. I have always been intrigued by Four Roses' history and mystique. Not only is there a romantic story behind the Four Roses name (read the official version here), but also a unique history of at least 120 behind the brand. Four Roses was one of America's most popular whiskeys before prohibition. Then it was unavailable for more than 40 years in the U.S. before returning in the last decade and gradually regaining its place among America's top bourbon brands. During that time the Four Roses name graced all sorts of different whiskeys, but now the distillery is back to focusing strictly on producing classic Kentucky Bourbon.

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